Labrador Retriever Puppy Training

English Cocker Spaniel Dog Breed
This ‘merry’ Cocker, as it is sometimes called makes an excellent family pet. Being considered as an excellent gun-dog, he is a great dog for Dad to take out shooting with. And because he is also a good playmate for children, he is the ideal dog for them to romp with in the garden. He is intelligent, manageable, affectionate, gentle natured, and has a merry temperament. Size: His ideal weight should be about 28-32lb. Full grown height for the male should be 151/2-16in and 15-151/2in for the female. Origin and history: The Cocker Spaniel is very popular in Britain, and in the United States where he is known as the English Cocker. He is also sometimes referred to as the ‘merry’ Cocker because of his happy and lively temperament and constantly wagging tail. Other titles that he has been referred to were the Cocking Spaniel or simply “Cocker� because of his one-time prowess at flushing out woodcock. The Cocker Spaniel was originated in Spain where the name ‘Spaniel’ and his ancestry can be traced all the way back to the 14th century. He is believed to have been used in various countries in falconry. Today, however, he is in his element while rabbit hunting, flushing out game for his master. The larger Field Spaniel is of a similar origin to the Cocker. Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed would be 1-11/2 cans of a branded meaty product (13.3oz size) with biscuit added in equal part by volume; or 3 cupfuls of dry food. Rations will need to be stepped up if the dog is taking vigorous exercise. This is a breed that will plead endearingly for small meals, which should be denied to avoid it from becoming overweight or smelly. With correct diet and exercise, he proves to be one of the healthiest and most long-lived of dogs. Exercise: He is a very active dog that needs plenty of exercise. He adores the country and is likely to return from a walk with tail wagging and covered with mud so he is not perhaps the ideal choice for town living Grooming: This breed requires daily brushing and combing. Extra care is needed to make sure that his coat does not become matted and his ears do not become tangled. Also, make sure that his ears do not flop into the feeding bowl. You might want to tape them back while he is eating or you may use a special ‘spaniel’ bowl. dog

Author Name:Linda Kajda Email:pebbles26@comcast.net URL: http://www.americaneskimosecrets.com

Doggy odor in Golden Retrievers
Why does a Labrador have doggy odor?

Like any other animal, dogs will walk, run, and play in areas that might result in their gathering dirt, disease, or odor. The Labrador retriever may begin to produce odor due to a number of factors, such as oily skin, dirt accumulation, ear or anal infections, and dental/plaque buildup. Not only can odor be offensive, it can be a sign of an unhealthy retriever. If a Labrador retriever is not monitored, and the sources of doggy odor are not removed, the Labrador retriever will develop chronic physical problems.

What to do About Doggy Odor?

When a Labrador retriever begins to emit doggy odor, closely inspect the dog from head to tail. Check the retriever’s ears for debris, red skin, and odor. If an ear infection is present, it could be the result of the dog’s ears not being properly ventilated. Ear infections are common in dogs with ears that are floppy or folded over. If the dog’s ears are not properly ventilated, the inside becomes moist and warm, and infection can easily result.

Look in the dog’s mouth for plaque buildup on the teeth, and for discolored or missing teeth. In addition to the well-known “dog breath,� additional odor may be coming from the dog’s mouth as a result of food buildup and poor oral hygiene. Check the retriever’s feet; there may be a cut or infection on the dog’s foot pads. This type of injury should be immediately cleaned and bandaged. Run your fingers through the dog’s coat, and make sure you inspect all sides of the coat. There may be a concealed skin injury underneath the Labrador’s fur. Also, check for an oily or greasy texture appearing on the retriever’s coat. The coat might be producing dandruff or the skin may be flaky.

One of the most prominent areas for odor generation is the retriever’s backside. There could be anal infection, a buildup of feces on the dog’s coat, or the Labrador might be constipated or have diarrhea, both of which will produce significant odor.

As you are inspecting the retriever’s body, take detailed notes on what you see, smell, feel, and hear. These notes will become valuable when you take the dog to a veterinarian. Also, it will document signs or symptoms that you might forget to tell the veterinarian.

If your dog is exhibiting odor and is found to have an infection or illness, take proactive measures to protect your Labrador retriever. Take action and make a dog-care schedule for your Labrador.

Dogs need to be kept clean, but caution must be taken not to give the Labrador too many baths. If the dog is bathed every week, the retriever’s coat is deprived of natural oils. As a result, over- bathing a Labrador can increase odor. A dog should be bathed once a month.

Part of maintaining a clean home includes washing animal bedding, play s, and the dog’s collar. After washing the Labrador’s bedding, make sure that the bedding is completely dry before allowing the dog to sleep on it. If the bedding has been removed from the dryer or brought in from a clothes line, vacuum the bedding with a small hand vacuum; this will remove any debris that was left by the dryer.

A Labrador retriever should be monitored when it goes outside, especially if your home is in a rural and/or wooded area. The dog might be picking up odors from discarded garbage or a dead animal carcass. Odors from rotting food or meat are extremely pungent. Also, they can induce vomiting if eaten. If your Labrador is allowed to go into wooded areas or alleys, follow the dog to see if he is eating carrion or miscellaneous garbage.

When dogs have odor emitting from their teeth or gums, it can be treated with a professional brushing which can include removing plaque from the dog’s mouth. Ask the vet about dog treats that are designed to help keep teeth and gums clean. Make teeth inspection a regular part of your dog’s cleaning schedule.

When your retriever has been playing in dirt or mud, keep two or three old towels ready to clean the dog’s coat. One towel can be put in water and used to clean the dog’s coat, and the other towel can remain dry and used to dry the dog’s coat. Dogs enjoy physical attention and respond well to having their coats cleaned.

Brushing the retriever on a daily basis helps to reduce smell, remove excess fur, and stimulate new hair growth.

Finally, ask your veterinarian about changing the Labrador’s diet. Dog food that contains solid meat promotes healthy skin, teeth, gums, and stools. High-quality food is available through a veterinarian or at large-scale pet shops. When shopping at a pet store, ask the store staff for recommendations.

Animal odors can result from a number of different sources. To make sure that your Labrador retriever is free of odor, it is necessary to perform regular visual checkups. The doggy odor will be removed when the dog’s body is inspected thoroughly, cleaned regularly, and taken to the veterinarian for regular checkups.

Learn all about Dog
Adoption from the unique e-book Super Dogs and
Puppies.

If you are searching for doggy odor, learn how to choose the right causes and solutions.

Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog

25 Human Foods That Are Poison To Pets
Recent alerts about unsafe commercial pet foods sounded an alarm among pet owners. Unfortunately, this problem isn’t a first occurrence â€" or even extremely rare. Incidents similar to this occur from time to time. Perhaps this is one reason more and more pet owners are opting to ‘home cook’ for their pets. However, in order to properly home-cook for your pets, you should first have a basic knowledge of canine nutrition; and, even more importantly, a thorough knowledge of human foods that are harmful to dogs. Some foods which are safe for human consumption can be poisonous for our canine companions. E-dog-training.com has put together a list of 25 common human foods that are toxic to dogs. Of course, when in doubt, always check with your vet. Here is a list to get you started:

1. Onions (Both onions and garlic contain the toxic ingredient Thiosulphate. But onions are more of a danger. Many dog biscuits contain *small* amounts of garlic â€" garlic contains less of this toxin so huge amounts would need to be consumed to be toxic. And, by the way, this poison builds up the system â€" it can be toxic in one large dose â€" or with repeated consumption of small amounts.)
2. Chocolate (Chocolate contains Theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. This can be fatal to dogs.)
3. Grapes (Grapes are dangerous because of an unknown substance which is toxic to dogs â€" affects canine’s kidneys)
4. Raisins (See above.)
5. Most Fruit Pits and Seeds (Contain Cyanogenic Glycosides resulting in cyanide poisoning â€" though the fruit itself is OK.)
6. Macadamia Nuts (Macadamia nuts contain an unknown substance that is toxic to dogs.)
7. Bones (Most bones should *not* be given (especially chicken bones) because they can splinter and cause laceration of the digestive system and/or become lodged in your pet’s throat â€" so they also pose a choking hazard.)
8. Potato Peelings and Green Potatoes (Contain Oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)
9. Rhubarb leaves (See above.)
10. Broccoli (Broccoli is only toxic in large quantities.)
11. Green parts of Tomatoes or Green Potatoes (Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)
12. Yeast Dough (Yeast Dough can produce gas and swell in your pet’s stomach â€" leading to rupture of the digestive system)
13. Coffee, Coffee Grounds, Tea, Soft Drinks (Coffee, tea, & most soft drinks are dangerous due to the caffeine.)
14. Beer/Wine/Alcohol of any kind (Alcohol of any kind could lead to coma or even death.)
15. Human Vitamins (Human vitamins, especially those containing iron, can cause damage to the lining of the digestive system as well as cause kidney and liver damage)
16. Moldy or Spoiled Food (I think this goes without saying.)
17. Persimmons (Persimmons can cause intestinal blockage)
18. Raw Eggs and Raw Fish (Raw eggs and some raw fish can cause Salmonella poisoning.)
19. Salt, Baking Soda, Baking Powder (In large amounts these can cause an electrolyte imbalance â€" and severe electrolyte imbalances can lead to muscle spasm or even congestive heart failure.)
20. Mushrooms (Mushrooms may contain toxins which could cause liver and kidney damage)
21. Sugar-Free Foods (Sugar-free foods containing Xylitol have been found to cause liver failure in some dogs.)
22. Nutmeg (Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures, and central nervous system damage.)
23. Excessive Fatty Foods (Excess fatty foods can cause Pancreatitis.)
24. Avocado (All parts of the avocado and avocado tree are toxic to dogs.)
25. Diary Products (Dairy products don’t usually pose a great danger; but many dairy product have high fat content (see number 23) â€" and many pets are lactose intolerant â€" some pets more than others. Lactose intolerance leads to gas and diarrhea; though small amounts of yogurt and cheese are usually fairly well tolerated.)

Keep these 25 toxic foods in mind when cooking for your dog. There may be other foods that your dog can not consume; so always ask your vet when you are unsure about anything concerning your pet â€" including being sure you include all ingredients necessary for proper pet nutrition. Visit our website at: http://www.e-dog-training.com for more information.

Visit <http://www.e-dog-training.com> soon for the latest free dog training tips and advice. Full article available at: http://www.e-dog-training.com/HumanFoodsToxicToDogs.html Puppy Training Tips: http://www.e-dog-training.com/Top10PuppyTrainingTips.htmlCopyright 2007 – Article may be reprinted and/or distributed if credit/link provided to: http://www.e-dog-training.com

The German Pointers Dog Breed History
The Origins of the German Pointer breed As the name suggests the German Pointer dog, also known as the German Shorthaired Pointer comes from Germany. Even though researchers do not have many details about the origin of this breed, the all concluded that the German Pointer breed is a mixed breed that developed in time from mixing breeds like the Spanish Pointer, the Foxhound, the Bloodhound and other hunting dogs and later the English Pointer. The German Pointer breed belongs to the European pointer dogs. There are records about the pointer dogs as well as the hunting dogs from Europe ever since the 13 th century. Todays German Pointer is an elegant and versatile hunter both in the water and on land. He is a specialist in bird hunting and is admired for his great personality. The German Shorthaired Pointer is related to the German Wirehaired Pointer, a breed of dog mostly common in Germany and less in The Great Britain or The United States. Though they are both mixed breeds and have related predecessors, the German Wirehaired Pointer does not have any Bloodhound or Foxhound predecessors. The Wirehaired Pointer however originates from the Pudel pointer, another mixed breed between the German Pudel and the English Pointer amongst others. Past records of the German Pointers breed Even if there aren't many records that talk about the German Pointers breed but mention the hunting dogs for their proficiency in finding and tracking large and small animals as well as their dexterity in both water and on land, the breed got some recognition after it was crossed with the English Pointer in the late 1800s. The German Pointer was recognized as a breed and recorded by the German Kennel Club in 1872. In the 1920's the German Shorthaired Pointer was taken to the United States where it became a popular breed. Not too long ago the American Kennel Club, that formally recognized the breed in the 1930, stated that the German Pointer reached the 20 th place in list of most popular breeds in the US. In 2005 a German Shorthaired Pointer dog won Best in Show at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show and the first show where a German Shorthaired Pointer participated was held in 1941 in Chicago.

For more info on <a href="http://largedogbreedz.com/large-dog-breeds/german-shorthaired-pointer/" target="_blank">German Pointers</a>, <a href="http://largedogbreedz.com/large-dog-breeds/german-shepard/">German Shepards</a>, and other large dog breeds of this origin, please visit us at <a href="http://largedogbreedz.com" target="_blank">large dog breeds</a>: largedogbreedz.com

Finding the Right Dog for Your Life
Let's face it. While there is a good bit of info about choosing a dog on the internet, most of it is written by people trying to SELL you a dog. So let's start with, I'm NOT trying to sell you a dog. This series of posts are intended for informational purposes only. So let's get started. Things to Consider: For the purpose of these discussions I will be examining the world of pure bred dogs. While there are many wonderful mixed breed dogs out there waiting to be adopted, I'm going to be teaching you what I know about the pure bred dog. In a future article, I will also discuss the individual dog and how to assess temperament. That discussion will also apply to the mixed breed dog. 1) Consider your life style. Are you a couch potato? Or a marathon runner? Looking for a dog to work your cattle or share your popcorn? The answer to these questions will have a HUGE effect on the type of dog you are looking for. 2) Consider your preferences. Look at a lot of pictures of various breeds of dogs. Make a list of the ones you find attractive. Then research the function/intelligence level/basic temperament of these breeds. 3) Smarter isn't always better. A few years ago a research psychologist published a great book about dog intelligence. He rank ordered many dog breeds into 70 rankings. The Border Collie landed on the top as the smartest dog. A lot of people equated smarter with better, ran out and bought a B.C. only to realize they had made a big mistake. Border Collies are very needy in terms of exercise of both the mind and the body. Without plenty of either, their intelligence allows them to find all sorts of trouble to get into. Meanwhile, I was living in an apartment, going to graduate school. I bought a little Lhasa Apso. My little darling was ranked #68 of 70. She was not the sharpest knife in the drawer. But she WAS a wonderful companion for me at the time. It didn't take much to keep her mind occupied. She did require a lot of grooming, but that was always a welcome break from studying for me. So we were a good match. And that is much more important than her intelligence level. 4) Pay close attention to what the breed was originally intended to do. It may have been over 100 years since the Lhasa Apso was used to guard Tibetan palaces, but trust me, they still bark at strange noises. If you don't like a dog that barks, make sure you don't get one of the guarding/hunting breeds. Overall All Breed Information The following Breed Descriptions are based on the breeds of dogs accepted by the AKC. This is not an endorsement of the AKC nor am I interested in comments in favor of or bashing this organization. It is what it is and for my discussion it is a good place to start. Start here, and do further research on the groups or breeds that interest you. The American Kennel Club divides dog breeds into the following groups: Sporting Breeds, Hound Breeds, Working Breeds, Terrier Breeds, Toy Breeds, Non-Sporting Breeds, and Herding Breeds. I will first make some very general comments about each of these groups. Please note I am painting with a wide brush here. There are of course breed variations within each group and individual variations within each breed. This is just a place to start. Sporting Breeds: These are breeds of dogs that were originally used for flushing up and or retrieving game. These are for the most part, your bird dogs. Most of these breeds are very active. Many are very bright. Most are very trainable, but not all of them. There is a good bit of variation in breed standards in this group so do your research. For example, in this group is the Golden Retriever (generally considered to be very bright) and the Irish Setter (generally considered to be not so bright). Hound Breeds: These are breeds of dogs that were originally intended for hunting. They are mostly divided between sight hounds and scent hounds. In general sight hounds are more active than your scent hounds, but there are exceptions to this. In general, most of these breeds enjoy a good bark. They love to hunt and want to let the world know where they are hunting. They tend to be sweet natured dogs (if you aren't a rabbit) but many can also be quite stubborn. Working Breeds: These dogs were bred to work. What that work entails varies greatly from breed to breed. In general, these are your personal and herd protection dogs. Some were rescue dogs from antiquity. Because their breed functions varies greatly, so do their breeds temperaments. In general, these are bright athlete dogs that are very active and can be very strong-willed. Pick out one of these dogs for your family with great care. Terrier Breeds. These dogs were bred to seek and destroy vermin. Sometimes the vermin they were seeking and destroying were MUCH bigger than the terrier. What that means is that in general these are very active and tenacious little dogs that can be quite a handful. Oh, but aren't they cute??? Toy Breeds: These are little dogs that were bred as companion animals, usually for royalty. They are almost always adorably cute and sweet. Toys can be a bit quirky and a bit slow to learn important lessons like potty training. But they were bred to make your heart melt every time you look at them and they do. Non-Sporting Breeds: This is a "catch all" category for dogs that didn't really fit anywhere else. The breeds in this category vary greatly. You will have to research the specific breed here. Herding Breeds. These dogs were uhm...bred to herd livestock. Yup. In general, these dogs are very bright, very active and NEED a JOB. Throw one of these into your backyard for hours on end a lone and you WILL be SORRY. Consider carefully what job you have for one of these guys before you bring it home. I hope that will help you get started on your journey to the perfect dog for your life.

Lisa Patterson has been involved with dogs and dog training all her life. She has a Masters degree in behavioral sciences and many years of experience developing behavior plans for people and for dogs. She has put her knowledge of behavior modification into practice in her work with children as well as with dogs. <br> Lisa has been involved in competitive obedience and agility training for over ten years and is one of the founding members of Waco Agility Group. Lisa Patterson<br> Companion Dog Training<br> 254-752-3551<br> <a href="http://www.companiondogtrainingwaco.com">Companion Dog Training</a>

AgreSsion in Boxers
There are certain breeds of dogs that tend to be more aggressive than others. We all have heard stories of pit bulls, chow-chows, and boxers that show aggressive behavior, growling, snarling, and even biting people and other animals. Signs of hostility in a dog include bared teeth, flattened ears, erect tail, stiff legs, and bristling back hair; the dog may growl or bark. If you see these behaviors, you should keep your arms at your sides and slowly back away, while firmly saying "No." Why do certain breeds tend to be aggressive? Let’s look at boxers as one breed that can behave aggressively under certain circumstances. Why do boxers tend to be aggressive? Sometimes Boxers are aggressive just because it is part of the breed’s specific instinctual behavior. It is not learned, but inbred over time. Boxers also tend to become aggressive when they have not been socialized adequately as puppies. A lack of exposure to “the world,â€� including other animals and people causes boxers to fear the unknown. They show aggression toward other animals and people because they are unsure and afraid. Boxers are strong-willed dogs; they have minds of their own and they don’t hesitate to act on their own. Boxers need confident owners who can take charge of the animal, train properly, and maintain control at all times. Be aware that sometimes aggression can be caused by thyroid problems. Always have your dog checked by a vet when it shows aggression to rule out medical problems. Understanding Your Boxer Sometimes Boxers are aggressive just because it is part of the breed’s specific instinctual behavior. It is not learned, but inbred over time. Boxers also tend to become aggressive when they have not been socialized adequately as puppies. A lack of exposure to “the world,â€� including other animals and people causes boxers to fear the unknown. They show aggression toward other animals and people because they are unsure and afraid. Boxers are strong-willed dogs; they have minds of their own and they don’t hesitate to act on their own. Boxers need confident owners who can take charge of the animal, train properly, and maintain control at all times. Be aware that sometimes aggression can be caused by thyroid problems. Always have your dog checked by a vet when it shows aggression to rule out medical problems. Understanding Your Boxer Many Boxers have protective instincts toward their owners when strangers are near. They need extensive exposure to friendly people so they learn to recognize the normal, non-threatening behavior of family members, friends, and neighbors. Then they are able to recognize the differences when someone acts threatening. Without extensive socialization from an early age, they are suspicious of everyone, which can lead to biting, snarling, growling, and aggressiveness or are so fearful of being harmed that they become aggressive in their own defense. Many Boxers are dominant or aggressive toward other dogs, especially those of the same sex. Some have strong instincts to chase and kill cats and other animals. If anything goes wrong in the breeding, socializing, training, or care of this breed, it is capable of injuring or killing other animals. If a Boxer puppy is removed from its mother before seven weeks of age, it will not learn canine social signals such as bite inhibition, which are taught by the mother dog and siblings during this time. The puppy will be “mouthyâ€� and nip, resist being handled, and act aggressively and fearfully toward other animals. Conversely, if a puppy lives with its mother or siblings for more than 12 weeks, his position in the "pecking order" may be so ingrained that he will always act dominant (if he was at the top) or submissive (if he was at the bottom) toward people or other dogs. How to Control Aggressive Boxers? Socializing Boxers The best way to begin socializing your Boxer is to bring him home at seven or eight weeks of age and get him out into the world daily. Yes, daily is what it takes to establish a strong bond with your dog so that he will trust, respect, and obey you. This is “socializingâ€� your dog, i.e.; getting him used to people, other dogs, other animals, and the world. This has an incredible impact on your dog’s behavior as he grows into adulthood. It’s also crucial to socialize your adolescent dog, between the ages of six and nine months old to three years old. This is a difficult time of life for dogs; they are changing physically and learning constantly. They must be taught how to behave around people and other animals. Continuing to socialize your Boxer during adulthood will not change the attitudes your dog has developed as a puppy, but can help to control his behavior so that he doesn’t act afraid or aggressive. Socializing begins early and continues throughout your Boxer’s life. Take him for rides in the car. Take him to pet stores and other stores that allow dogs. Expose him to other animals at dog parks and as you take walks. Visit friends with him and have friends come to your home. Teach the dog to greet visitors. Use praise, praise, praise and affection constantly to encourage good behavior. Build a strong relationship with your Boxer; you are the leader and as the leader you must be calm, strong, loving, and consistent. Touching has a powerful emotional effect on many dogs. It is part of the bonding process between the owner and the dog. Your dog must be willing to accept touching so that you can groom him, care for injuries, and put leashes and collars on him. Also, touch will help develop a strong, loving relationship between you, leading to his desire to please you. A daily “touchâ€� session of five minutes or so is invaluable. Training Boxers Most puppies are ready to begin obedience lessons at six to eight months of age. The first lessons should be brief, 10 to 15 minutes a day (in addition to socialization activities), and gradually increase to 30 minutes. Training works best with lots of praise and a stern "no" for corrections. The trainer should always be consistent in reinforcing good behavior and correcting bad behavior and should never strike a dog. Many trainers use a leash and chain-link collar, known as a choke collar. In spite of its name, the collar is never meant to choke a dog, but is used to deliver quick snaps to gain a dog's attention. This training collar is useful in teaching basic obedience commands, such as sit, stay, heel, come, and down. You must establish yourself as the leader of the dog’s pack. If you don’t, you will never have your dog under control. You must be strong, calm, firm, and respectful of the dog. Your behavior will determine whether your dog will obey you and respect you. The well-trained dog isn’t ultimately trained by treats, collars, or demands; he is trained by his love and respect for you. Conclusion In training Boxers to be non-aggressive, the owner must commit to daily socialization and training sessions for the duration of the dog’s life. The respectful and loving relationship between the Boxer and the owner is the most important factor in the Boxer’s acceptance of and non-aggression toward people and other animals. The owner must be the pack leader â€" firm, loving, consistent, and in control at all times. Learn all about Dog Adoption from the unique e-book Super Dogs and Puppies. If you are searching for dog AGGRESSION, learn the right reasons and solutions.

Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog

Your Dog's Health
Your Dog’s Health Dog health information is one click away, if you choose to surf the net for the details you need on how to raise a dog. If you take a puppy from a professional breeder for instance, make sure you get all the dog health information necessary for the future: vaccination and de-worming as well as any specific dysfunctions or weaknesses. All dog health information should be included in the contract you sign with the dog breeder, where you also have the pedigree warranty. Many buyers choose to have the dog health information provided by the breeder checked by a vet. Specialized magazines, professional sites, dog rearing guides and so on, all provide very comprehensive dog health information. If every dog owner had at least the basic understanding of what it is good for the dog, neglect would be no longer such an issue. The main dog health care problems are fleas, worms and poisons. If these are not professionally taken care of, other very serious troubles may be expected. Worms and external parasites waste the dog’s body of nutrients and energy; plus dog health care providers insist that neglected dogs are full of toxins because of the parasite overgrowth. It is true that there are plenty of dog health problems that we prevent by regular vaccination, but what can we do about the rest of the afflictions that may take us and our animals unawares? Let’s take for instance vomiting and diarrhea: These are usually very simple since no complications result from such minor dog health problems that are mainly triggered by improper nutrition. If under routine treatment vomiting and diarrhea don’t disappear within twenty-four to forty-eight hours, it could mean there are serious dog health problems at stake and an immediate thorough examination is a must. Should this be the case, such a dog health problem is no longer the subject of home treatment, but a real medical emergency. Another frequent dog health problem is constipation. It can appear as a result of deficient nutrition and inconsistent bowel movement. Don’t leave it untreated! It may lead to self-intoxication, or even worse dog health problems. Eliminate water and meat from the dog’s diet and feed it on meat broth or baby food; a mixture of milk and cereal may also be of help. Return to a normal diet can only be resumed within a few days after normal stool is recovered. In closing, remember a healthy dog is a happy dog, so be sure your pet’s diet is well balanced and includes plenty of vitamins. Some carrots and peas included with their food is really good for them. For more information and some great tips, come on over and visit me to find out how easy you can be the envy of your neighborhood! Jacque Dog Healthcare Information http://doghealthcareinformation.blogspot.com/

You can call me: JJ, Jacque J Johnson, Jacque, but if you want to know me call me at: Dog Healthcare Information http://doghealthcareinformation.blogspot.com/

LUXURY DOG GIFTS: What do you give a Dog and Wine Lover? a Whiner and Diner Wine Crate Dog Feeder.
“Treat your dog like a person, and he will treat you like a dog…� Not my pooch!

They are family members â€" we pamper our pets like our kids, we throw them birthday parties and arrange play-dates, and hire dog walkers for them. We dress them up for Halloween (my 85-pound black lab Bird in a bumble bee costume?) and take them along on trips.

Every dog owner I know has that “specialâ€� relationship with his pet â€" I’m sorry to say that I prefer my dog Bird over most people I know â€" and yes, I will provide him with the very best.

The pet industry has taken notice: according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), we spent over $36 billion on our pets in 2006 â€" a confirmation of how much they are a part of American family life. High-end hotels (fretté linen for your four-legged friend?), cafés, restaurants and deluxe boutiques have quickly opened their doors to our canine population. From doggy spas and dog fashion shows to luxurious pet products, we seem to spoil our furry friends rotten (or is it ourselves?).

If you are a dog lover and a wine connoisseur (and I am!), these unique dog dishes will satisfy your desire to feed Fido with panache and also feed the interior decorator inside of you. Treat your classy pooch to a fine dining experience and furnish your home with a beautiful piece of doggie furniture.
Being elevated, these dog diners also promote healthy eating and drinking habits for your pet. Two doggie bowls recessed side-by-side in a stand is not a novelty, but in an authentic wooden wine crate â€" oh là là!

The feeders are hand-crafted by Whiner and Dinerâ„¢ out of recycled (did I hear “eco-chicâ€�?) wooden wine crates from European and Californian wineries. They come in different sizes to accommodate the tall and the short ones, and are outfitted with 1- or 2-quart stainless steel dog bowls (embossed with paw prints â€" or plain edges, for minimalists). Depending on the size chosen, the dog dishes can consist of either a single-bowl or a double-bowl configuration.

You can choose from a few basic colors or have the dish custom color-washed to complement your unique décor (match it to your kitchen cabinets, your floor or wherever your imagination takes you). And, of course, you wouldn’t dream of owning an upscale pet feeder unless it was hand-personalized with Fido’s name…well, they can do that too!

Now, if only they could get your favorite “Château Margaux� wine crate…they will, depending on their inventory! Voilà! However, they do not include the wine…too bad!
“Bone Appétit! A votre santé!�

Catherine Simms is an artist/ designer for<br> <a href="http://www.artalacarte1.com/"> ART A LA CARTE </a> Plaster Works with a Twist.<br> <a href="http://www.whineranddiner.net/"> WHINER AND DINER </a> Dog Dishes and Dog Beds.<br> <a href="http://www.lionheartdogscats.com/"> LIONHEART PET ADOPTIONS </a> in Pound Ridge New York.<br><br> This article may be freely republished providing its content, information and links are retained and left active.

dog adoption costs
Before you decide to bring a dog home, it is absolutely essential that you give some thought to the costs that you will be incurring in the process. It’s not the purchase alone, though even that is likely to be expensive in the case of some superior breeds of dogs, but also the cost of the equipments you will have to buy to make your home habitable for your pet. Then there are the visits to the vet, which have to be regularly made, and the expensive vaccinations, which the puppy has to be given. So, all in all, you will have to make pretty sure that your wallet can take the beating before you bring your doggy home.

What then, are the costs, and how much are they? Let’s start at the beginning. You have to buy the dog unless you are lucky enough to have it presented to you by a friend or a family member and the cost of this initial purchase can vary very widely. The variance will firstly depend on the type of dog you are buying. A purebred “companion only� puppy usually starts from around $800 but can go up to astronomical amounts for rare or exotic breeds. If you prefer to adopt a non-purebred variety from a shelter, it will cost you from around $150 to $300.

Costs also differ in different geographic locations so it is difficult for us to tell you of one fixed sum that you will have to pay for any given variety of dog. Visit the sources in your locality from where people normally buy dogs and check on the prices. And this includes the internet. After some queries on your part, you will be able to come to a fix on what your desired dog costs.

Now that you’ve got your dog, it’s time to look at the other costs you will have to start to incur. Let’s start with the one - time costs.

One Time Costs Average Cost
Fence $300 - $1500
Bowls $25
Collar $6
Training Collar $10
Leash $12
Bed $40
Crate $100
Brush/Grooming tools $20
Shampoo/ Coat care $15
Neuter/ Spay ( Based on weight ) $300
Microchip $50



Then there are the annual costs, which you have to be prepared for. I enumerate them below:

Vaccinations $185
Heartworm Test $35
Heartworm Preventive $65
Flea/Tick Preventive $120
Food $480
Toys/Treats $45
Tag $5

And then there are other costs:

Boarding â€" per day ( with 2 playtimes ) $25
Grooming â€" per time $50
Training classes ( Per 6-8 classes ) $100
Individual training ( Per session ) $100



And remember, this list is for grown up dogs and not puppies. If it’s a puppy you are adopting, the costs increase. There’s a check up, a series of 4 sets of vaccines, worming, heartworm tests, all of which will cost you close to $300. Then there is puppy food, which will set you back around $450 and toys/treats, which will cost approximately $65.

So, as you will have counted up from the figures given above, in the first year, you will be spending approximately $1500 to $2500 over and above the cost of buying your dog. After the first year, you will spend less per year â€" about $1000. Smaller dogs cost a bit less and larger dogs cost more.

Apart from all this, your dog will have lifelong healthcare needs. There will be shots and medicines you will be administering as preventive care and there will almost certainly be unexpected accidents, injuries or illnesses, however well you look after your dog.

It is therefore utterly essential that you objectively evaluate your budget and come to a decision as to whether you can really afford a dog. He will look to you for your support in all things and you owe it to him to give him, not only your love, but proper care, food and medical attention. These don’t come free â€" so ask yourself whether you can afford to get that dog you always wanted. If you realize that you can’t, it’s best to do without, both for your sake and his.

Anybody is free to use the article in their website as long as an acknowledgement is given Nancy Richards' and a link to the site www.traindogsandpuppies.com

dog adoption costs
Before you decide to bring a dog home, it is absolutely essential that you give some thought to the costs that you will be incurring in the process. It’s not the purchase alone, though even that is likely to be expensive in the case of some superior breeds of dogs, but also the cost of the equipments you will have to buy to make your home habitable for your pet. Then there are the visits to the vet, which have to be regularly made, and the expensive vaccinations, which the puppy has to be given. So, all in all, you will have to make pretty sure that your wallet can take the beating before you bring your doggy home.

What then, are the costs, and how much are they? Let’s start at the beginning. You have to buy the dog unless you are lucky enough to have it presented to you by a friend or a family member and the cost of this initial purchase can vary very widely. The variance will firstly depend on the type of dog you are buying. A purebred “companion only� puppy usually starts from around $800 but can go up to astronomical amounts for rare or exotic breeds. If you prefer to adopt a non-purebred variety from a shelter, it will cost you from around $150 to $300.

Costs also differ in different geographic locations so it is difficult for us to tell you of one fixed sum that you will have to pay for any given variety of dog. Visit the sources in your locality from where people normally buy dogs and check on the prices. And this includes the internet. After some queries on your part, you will be able to come to a fix on what your desired dog costs.

Now that you’ve got your dog, it’s time to look at the other costs you will have to start to incur. Let’s start with the one - time costs.

One Time Costs Average Cost
Fence $300 - $1500
Bowls $25
Collar $6
Training Collar $10
Leash $12
Bed $40
Crate $100
Brush/Grooming tools $20
Shampoo/ Coat care $15
Neuter/ Spay ( Based on weight ) $300
Microchip $50



Then there are the annual costs, which you have to be prepared for. I enumerate them below:

Vaccinations $185
Heartworm Test $35
Heartworm Preventive $65
Flea/Tick Preventive $120
Food $480
Toys/Treats $45
Tag $5

And then there are other costs:

Boarding â€" per day ( with 2 playtimes ) $25
Grooming â€" per time $50
Training classes ( Per 6-8 classes ) $100
Individual training ( Per session ) $100



And remember, this list is for grown up dogs and not puppies. If it’s a puppy you are adopting, the costs increase. There’s a check up, a series of 4 sets of vaccines, worming, heartworm tests, all of which will cost you close to $300. Then there is puppy food, which will set you back around $450 and toys/treats, which will cost approximately $65.

So, as you will have counted up from the figures given above, in the first year, you will be spending approximately $1500 to $2500 over and above the cost of buying your dog. After the first year, you will spend less per year â€" about $1000. Smaller dogs cost a bit less and larger dogs cost more.

Apart from all this, your dog will have lifelong healthcare needs. There will be shots and medicines you will be administering as preventive care and there will almost certainly be unexpected accidents, injuries or illnesses, however well you look after your dog.

It is therefore utterly essential that you objectively evaluate your budget and come to a decision as to whether you can really afford a dog. He will look to you for your support in all things and you owe it to him to give him, not only your love, but proper care, food and medical attention. These don’t come free â€" so ask yourself whether you can afford to get that dog you always wanted. If you realize that you can’t, it’s best to do without, both for your sake and his.

Anybody is free to use the article in their website as long as an acknowledgement is given Nancy Richards' and a link to the site www.traindogsandpuppies.com